Thursday, May 29, Tokyo:
Arrived in Shinjuku one of the many districts in Tokyo. The station is one of the biggest in Tokyo and dwarfs anything we have in San Francisco and probably even in New York.
After arriving in Tokyo around 4pm we went through immigration, picked up our JR Rail pass and made it to our hotel by 6pm. Hotel Century Southern Tower is nicely located right ontop of Shinjuku station. Views from our 25th floor room were fantastic:
It was approximately 6pm when we arrived at the Hotel which actually starts at the 20th floor. Our room is on the 25th.
The view from our room is pretty nice.
When the sun sets the lights come out!
We were tired but had to eat so walked over the promenade to Takashimaya one of the many shopping complexes that are located in the area. There are a lot of plastic food displays which make ordering food easier. Prices are also displayed so we won't accidentally go into one of those high-priced eateries.
We decided on....Korean food!
A giant crab hangs over a place specializing in..you guessed it--crab!
May 30, Asakusa, and Skytree
Here's a view of the the road lined with shops that lead directly to the temple in the background.
The temple was crowded and filled with students for some reason.
One of the many side streets that offer a glimpse into a more traditional and quieter side of Tokyo.
Making rice cookies.
Lunch at a restaurant in Asakusa with some friends who live in Japan.
and they gave us a nice set of pastries from Chiba.
View of the Tokyo Skytree.
Its shadow on a nearby highrise.
May 31 Meiji Jingu Shrine, Omotesando and Odaiba
We went to Meiji Jingu Shrine today and enjoyed the walk to through the park as it was so peaceful. It offered a nice change from the bright lights, and crowds of Shinjuku.
One of many traditional Shinto weddings taking place while we were there.
This is an auditorium designed by architect Kenzo Tange which is on the edge of Meiji Jingu park.
Also nearby is Harajuku the center of youth fashion culture--mostly for young women. Lots of brightly colored shops. Cuteness reigns!
We then walked over to Omotesando which is a very upscale neighborhood filled with name brand flag ship stores with many distinctively designed buildings.
I think this was sthe Prada building:
The Nezu art museum:
One of the hardest part of traveling is finding a good restaurant and we were fortunate to have found this rather upscale looking restaurant called Omotenashi in Omotesando. Cost of lunch was only $8.30 which was amazing as the environment was wonderful, service was exceptional and the food amazing.
The restaurant specializes in Chicken and for lunch there is a choice of 6 different dishes all at a set price of 824 yen.
We returned to the hotel to rest a bit and then went to Odaiba which is a man-made island. Strangely it's connected to Tokyo with a bridge based on the Brooklyn Bridge...
and there's even a Statue of Liberty!
This is the Fuji TV building in Odaiba.
June 1: Today we head to Kyoto on the bullet train!
We left our hotel...
around 9:30 and traveled on the JR Chuo Rapid Train to Tokyo station.
We made reservations for the 11:33 Hikari #511 train which would is supposed to arrive in Kyoto around 2:11--actually in Japan the schedules are so accurate that 2:11 will be the actual arrival time. Here's our train arriving at the platform.
Theresa and Aaron getting ready to depart Tokyo.
To help celebrate the 50th anniversary of the bullet train we purchased a bottle of the official tea.
We arrived in Kyoto and had a hard time finding the hotel as I took a wrong turn after exiting the station, but we got a nice tour of Kyoto as we wandered around for a while. We finally did manage to stumble onto it. It's centrally located with a lot of restaurants nearby. The view is not as nice as the one in Tokyo, but there are very few highrises in Kyoto.
We took a quick walk around the neighborhood which has a mixture of the very new and some traditional elements.
Bicycles are a popular mode of transport.
A mobile taco shop--very traditional Kyoto delicacy.
We had dinner at Ootoya, a chain restaurant, which is inexpensive, but provides relatively high quality meals. This is grilled pork over rice.
Aaron had fish and mixed vegetables.
After dinner we explored some other areas around the hotel.
The river is lined with restaurants and many people gather along the banks.
Nearby is Pontocho which is a narrow alley filled with a lot of very expensive and exclusive restaurants though we found a few that were not too exorbitant...
We saw our first Geisha who was accompanied by her
"mother."
Tired after the long ride and will look forward to tomorrow when we start really exploring Kyoto!
June 2: Southern Higashiyama, Kiyomizudera Temple, and Kyoto Station
This morning we purchased a one day bus pass for 500 yen
and traveled to Southern Higashiyama which is probably the most picturesque area of Kyoto. Located in the hills many of the temples offer great views of the city and many beautiful streets can be found around nearly every corner. Kiyomizu-dera temple was established in the 700s but burned down many times. This was constructed in the 1600s. It's built into the hill and the viewing platform offers a nice view of Kyoto.
The viewing platform:
Nearby is a shrine very popular with young people as it has a "lovers stone." A person would touch a stone at one end, close his/her eyes and attempt to walk to another stone and also touch it. If successful, you are guaranteed to find true love and happiness.
Here's one young women who has made it to the opposite stone (with the generous help of an adult). He kept saying "migi" then "hidari" over and over as she walked which means right and left. I guess a little help is okay!
One of the many shrines in this area devoted to fortune, health, etc.--all that good stuff.
The streets near the foot of these temples are quite picturesque. Many shops and restaurants can be found.
More temples...
This is the famous Otowa waterfall whose water purportedly provides health and good luck. The main temple gets its name from these waters: Kiyo=clear, mizu=water and dera=temple so you get Kiyomizu-dera! There was an extremely long line waiting to purify themselves so we passed on it.
We decided to eat at this soba restaurant along the way.
This is my simple, but delicious herring over soba dish.
After the temples we went to Kyoto station. This is Kyoto tower that's in front of the station.
The Kyoto station is an extremely futuristic building that is a tourist attraction as well.
The interior could very well come from the future...
June 3: Nishiki Market, Kinkakuji & Ryoanji and Gion at night
Today we first visited Nishiki Market which is a long covered arcade of locally prepared Kyoto foods. There were a lot of very unusual looking delicacies and we did purchase some soup base that you mix with hot water.
Lots of food you can eat right on the spot. I think this was mostly grilled fish of various types.
Pickled spinach and some other unknown veggies...
We then travelled to Kinkakuji temple also known as the Golden Pavillion. It's actually covered in gold leaf. It served as a buddhist temple as well as a retirement home for one of the Shoguns.
Quite beautiful!
This is Ryoanji with its famed rock garden that shows the essence of Japanese aesthetics--beautiful, but simple.
It was quite crowded!
In the evening we took a stroll to another section of Gion, the Geisha district. Lining a small canal are these very exclusive restaurants where Geishas sometimes entertain. None were to be seen but perhaps on another night...
This is a shrine that the Geishas are fond of as they come often while undergoing their apprenticeship to pray for success.
Wed., June 4: Arashiyama--Tenryu-Ji Temple, Bamboo Grove and Okochi Sanso
Today we traveled to Arashiyama by taking the Tozai Subway and then transferring to the nostalgic Randen Streetcar/tram Railway to Arashiyama. Arashiyama, I believe, is still considered part of Kyoto though it is far enough to have a completely different feeling to it--more smalltown and suburban. Arashiyama is famous for its scenery, temples and the Katsura River.
We started the day with a western style breakfast at our hotel for 680yen.
The Randen train that takes you to Arashiyama.
The Togetsukyo Bridge that spans the Katsura River.
The Tenryu-ji Temple
The pond and garden at the temple.
The Bamboo Forest is amazing.
We next visited the home of actor Denjiro Okochi who was famous in the 1920s until his death in 1962.
Consisting of a main home, and other smaller structures nestled into a meticulously planned garden it is truly quite inspiring.
The main home.
One of the smaller structures.
Scenic views.
This is another modern structure which I believe was the home of a caretaker for the Villa. Great design.
These are tables where visitors can write poetry in these serene surroundings.
Back at Arashiyama station we ate lunch and did a bit of shopping before heading back to our hotel. We decided to eat at this soba restaurant.
My pork and soba dish for 980 yen.
Waiting for the JR Sagano line that would take us back to Kyoto.
For dinner we ate at a Korean restaurant that's right across the street from the hotel. This is a beef dish with soup, kimchee and rice.
Theresa had a pork tofu soup with veggies and rice. Both were quite delicious and reasonable at $12.
Thurs., June 5: Nara and the Todaiji or Giant Buddha
Today we went to see the Giant Buddha in Nara. The trip takes about 45 minutes from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara Rapid train.
The walk from the station to the Giant Buddha is probably a bit over a mile and on the way up we stopped at this Japanese fast food chain for lunch. We were served by a woman who was really energetic, courteous and attentive. Quite an amazing attitude. She seemed to enjoy her work and was sooo enthusiastic.
Sarusawa pond.
This 5 story pagoda is the 3rd tallest in Japan.
A small eatery.
One of the outer gates as you approach the Giant Buddha. You can see of the deer which freely roam the park that surrounds the temple. They are considered the messengers of the gods.
Theresa and her new friend...
Another Gate as you get closer to the Buddha.
We finally make it. The structure that houses the Giant Buddha is the "world's largest wooden structure" according to the official Nara website.
You can get a sense of the scale here when you see the tiny people approaching the temple...
There were thousands of students here.
The giant buddha is quite impressive and may be the largest bronze buddha in the world...
One the rather scary looking demons that flank the giant buddha.
Hundreds of students wait their turn to crawl through an opening under one of the giant pillars---probably for good luck.
Back in Kyoto we stopped by one of our favorite restaurants, Ootoya. Cheap ($9) but good! This is breaded pork.
Friday, June 6: Fushimi Inari Shrine, Tokofuji temples
Another day of temples though I did take an early morning stroll and took some photos of the area around the hotel.
This is actually our hotel, The Kyoto Royal Park Hotel. There is a restaurant and bakery on the first floor, and is quite convenient--subway station is a block away, and shops and restaurants are everywhere.
Probably a theater in the Gion area.
Pontocho alley with a myriad of restaurants. Nightime is when this place comes alive.
There are lots of these alleys that lead to more restaurants...
The Kamogawa river with restaurants (on the left) lining the banks.
Our day of touring started at the Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine which is in the Southern part of Kyoto--about 35 minutes from our hotel by train. It's one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Kyoto and is dedicated to rice and harvests. The fox is the messenger of the god at this shrine so you'll often see fox statuary.
We purchased a good luck plaque. Theresa is writing down our message. The plaque is supposed to be left at the temple to be blessed by the priests and then burned and sent to heaven. We decided to keep ours and take it home!
There are supposed to be 5,000 of these orange tori gates which go all the way up to the top of the mountain.
You can see the inscriptions on the gates when you look backwards on your way up. You can actually purchase your own for $1750 and up depending on size and location.
After Fushimi Inari we took a short train ride to Tokufuji temple which actually has a number of smaller temples surrounding it, many of which had rock gardens.
A veranda at Tokufuji temple.
A very long covered bridge that spans a valley and small stream.
A beautiful azalea garden.
A very simple gravel garden. Notice there is no debris or leaves on the gravel. Things are kept clean.
Theresa enjoying the quiet and serenity of the temple and rock garden. Seems very few tourists make their way to this one, but we truly enjoyed it and had it all to ourselves.
I could have stayed all day!
We had dinner at a vegetarian tofu restaurant called Tougaden. This was a great find which we just happened to stumble upon and it's right across from our hotel. For $12 this is so far my favorite meal in Kyoto!
I had an Yebisu beer--all vegetarian meal!
Saturday, June 7 Kyoto and Osaka
This was actually taken the night before on June 6 as we were walking down Pontocho. We ran into these two Maiko who are apprentices and not full Geishas yet.
As this is our last full day in Kyoto (the 7 days went by much too quickly!) we took a long stroll through Pontocho and Gion again. It's pretty quiet during the day.
Many establishments have these good luck decorations by the entrance.
This is a building, I believe, where many Maikos receive their training. Their names are written on the green chalkboard on the right which lists their schedule for the day.
On our walk we came across an Ippudo ramen restaurant. It's a chain, but some consider it one of the best in Tokyo. Inside Kyoto says: "Ippudo Ramen got its start in Fukuoka, Kyushu, in 1995 and quickly spread not only across Japan but also to such countries as the United States, the UK and Singapore. One bite of the noodles and a slurp of the soup and you’ll understand why the chain has enjoyed such rapid success: the noodles have just the right degree of texture and the thick soup is rich and satisfying. Order a plate of gyoza (dumplings) to go with your ramen and you’ve got the makings of a real feast."
Our ramen. We all ordered the same one.
Later in the afternoon we took a train to Osaka (about 30 minutes on the express train). The station is REALLY big and busy and probably matches anything in Tokyo.
A huge roof covers the station.
Like many stations it's surrounded by huge shopping complexes.
This is a shot of a very busy intersection.
Just outside the station there were people everywhere.
Here are people waiting to board the trains.
We ate dinner at an Udon restaurant in Kyoto station. This was a bacon carbonara udon with side dishes.
Theresa had shaved bonito flakes, giner and udon.
Both were quite good and reasonable at $13 and $10. Tonight we have to pack, unfortunately, as we must say goodbye to Kyoto and head back to Tokyo in the morning. Sigh....
June 8, Return to Tokyo
We said our last goodbyes to Kyoto today. I took an early morning walk to Yasaka Shrine and Gion.
We caught an 11:33 bullet train that would take us back to Tokyo around 2:10pm--perfect time for check-in at the hotel. Our ticket:
Waiting for the train, Hikari 518, 11:33
The Shinkansen interior--pretty comfortable and spacious.
We arrived back in Tokyo and after resting a bit in our hotel we went to Tokyo's Shibuya neighborhood to see Hachiko..
and Shibuya Crossing. We're making our way through the crowds.
Here's a bird's eye view of the crossing.
We decided to eat in our room that evening so we purchased some food from the food court across from our hotel.
Monday, June 9: Yokohama, Koenji and Kichioji
We travelled to Yokohama's Chinatown on the JR Shonan Shinjuku line--about a 40 minute ride with one transfer. This is Japan's largest Chinatown which started around 1859 when Japan opened its country to foreign trade.
The streets are filled with restaurants and are quite colorful.
There are 2 large temples.
We ate at a fast food Chinese restaurant called Sario. Food was actually not bad.
We then took a 20 minute stroll to Yokohama's Osanbashi Pier and International Passenger terminal which is an amazing structure built around 2002. The top part is almostly entirely made of wooden decking.
The actual passenger terminal is underneath the wooden pier.
A cute vending machine with the popular cartoon character, Anpanman.
The roof is quite interesting.
A bicyclist crossing a large plaze near the pier.
This is an old port warehouse now used as a shopping mall--similar to Ghiradelli Square.
In the evening we decided to visit two smaller Tokyo neighborhoods. This is Koenji.
According to Aaron this is a famous architectural landmark.
We then took the train to another neighborhood called Kichioji which according to one source is the most popular choice to live for Tokyoites. It does have some interesting sights. This is called Harmonica alley which maintains a retro look.
There are plenty of cute shops and restaurants.
Tuesday, June 10: Hakusan Temple Hydrangea Festival, Asakusa, and Omoide Yokocho, and Din Tai Fung
We went to the 30th annual Hakusan Shrine Hydrangea Festival which is located in the Bunkyo District of Tokyo. If you love Hydrangeas, you'll truly enjoy this. Colorful lanterns lead the way.
The tori gate as you enter the Hakusan shrine.
Interestingly, there is a memorial to Sun Yat Sen. I did a quick bit of research and learned that he lived in Japan as an exile. I'll have to do further research when I return as I wonder what his connection, if any, to this shrine is.
The hydrangea are lovely and come in many different varieties.
After the hydrangeas we traveled to Ueno and lunch at Himuro, a ramen restaurant.
You purchase your ramen at this vending machine. It's quite common at many restaurants especially those that cater to workers.
We sat at a counter and were able to watch the cooks in action. Again, their enthusiasm is admirable. They welcomed us with a hearty cheer and greetings.
The ramen was quite good and cheap at roughly $7.
After lunch we traveled to Asakusa once more--probably still my favorite area in Tokyo.
That evening we had dinner at Din Tai Fung, the rather famous Taiwan dumpling restaurant. It's located on the 12th floor of the department store across from our hotel. We had to wait about 20 minutes to get a seat.
The dumplings were quite yummy though on the expensive side.
After dinner I took one last late night stroll around our hotel.
I was quite fortunate to stumble across OMOIDE YOKOCHO or "Memory Lane." It was on my list of places to visit. It's filed with Izakayas which are mainly drinking and eating establishments similar to Pubs, but probably more lively.
It's packed with eateries and drunken salarymen, locals and tourists. The next time I return I'll have to give them a try (I'm already planning for my next Japan trip!).
Tomorrow we go home back to America!
Wed., June 11 Going back home...
Our airplane awaits... We had a very good time in Japan visiting Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, and Yokohama. It was a wonderful experience and I plan to return in the very near future to explore other parts of Japan.
